By South African Wines
Argentina made Malbec famous. South Africa is quietly making its own version, and it is earthier, more savoury and considerably less discovered.
Say Malbec and most people think Argentina, which is fair enough. Mendoza made the grape famous. Head to the Cape, though, and it tells a different story: bolder, earthier, and considerably less common, which is much of the appeal.
Argentine Malbec leans into pure, generous fruit. South African Malbec brings something more savoury, largely because of where it grows. Ancient soils, mountain slopes and cooling ocean air produce a wine with an edge the Argentine versions do not have.
Expect dense dark fruit, blackberry and plum and dark cherry, sitting over an earthy note that reflects the granite and sandstone underneath. There is often a suggestion of fynbos, the wild Cape scrub, somewhere in the background. And unlike some New World Malbec that can feel heavy-handed, these keep a freshness that makes the second glass easier than the first.
The tannins are firm without being aggressive. The Cape ripens grapes slowly while holding on to acidity, and that balance is what makes the wine work at a table rather than only in a glass.
Stellenbosch produces the most polished examples, structured wines with fine tannins that age well, helped by mountain slopes that supply warmth and cool air in roughly equal measure.
Paarl gives richer, more powerful versions. Newer plantings in the Swartland are producing wilder wines off hot, dry, unirrigated ground, and they are the most interesting of the three if you like a bit of edge. Here and There Malbec at £10.99 comes from there and is the cheapest way to see what the fuss is about.
Some of the better bottles come from higher-altitude sites, where warm days and genuinely cold nights let complexity build without losing freshness. Rustenberg Malbec at £12.89 is the reliable middle ground, and Bellevue Estate Malbec at £20 is the one to open when it matters.
Cape Malbec usually gets small-scale treatment. Producers tend to ferment in separate parcels and age a portion in French oak, enough to add structure without burying the fruit.
The blending is where it gets interesting. You will find Malbec alongside Cabernet Sauvignon for structure, Shiraz for spice, or Pinotage for a distinctly South African twist. These blends often have more going on than the single-variety bottles, and they are where winemakers here are being most inventive. Our South African blends range is where to look.
Malbec wants bold food. Grilled lamb is the classic answer, and it is the right one: chops rubbed with rosemary and garlic, or a shoulder cooked slowly with herbs.
Beef works as well. A sirloin with peppercorn sauce, a proper stew, or a burger with mature Cheddar. The structure copes with rich, meaty food without being flattened by it.
Spiced dishes are the less obvious match and a good one. The earthiness suits cumin, coriander and black pepper, so a Moroccan tagine or a lamb curry both work better than you would expect.
For cheese, go aged. Mature Gouda or a well-kept Cheddar will meet the tannins halfway while the fruit provides contrast.
Serve it around 16 to 18°C, a little below room temperature, which keeps the freshness and stops the alcohol pushing forward. Give it half an hour of air; these wines usually open up noticeably.
Most are ready on release and will develop over five to eight years. The better bottles from good producers will go a decade or more, picking up leather, tobacco and herbal notes as the fruit recedes.
Argentine Malbec is on every shelf in Britain. Cape Malbec is not, which means the pricing has not caught up with the quality yet.
It also suits British autumn and winter cooking almost too well. When the roasts come back, this is a useful thing to have in the rack: sturdy enough for heavy food, tidy enough for a dinner party.
As a gift it works because it is familiar enough not to intimidate and unusual enough to be worth mentioning. Browse the full South African Malbec selection, or the wider red wines range. We deliver across the UK.
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